Teh Tarik, which literally means "Pull Tea" is a popular drink in Malaysia. Teh Tarik can be found at Indian stalls or Indian restaurants and has become the de facto national beverage of Malaysia.
There are valid reasons behind "pulling" tea--it makes the tea extra aromatic, smooth, and forms a killer froth. To many visitors to Malaysia, watching this act is both new and entertaining.
(Click here to view the new photoset of 15 pictures)
One lazy afternoon during my recent visit to Penang I was driving along the coastal highway in Bayan Baru and found a Shanghainese restaurant in Bayan Bay (where the new Queensbay Mall is).
Shanghai Ding is a new Shanghainese restaurant recently opened in Penang. I love Shanghainese food and couldn't pass up the opportunity to try a new restaurant. Penang is no Shanghai, but I was pleased with the food there.
This is their flagship specialty: Crab Meat Xiao Long Bao / 蟹肉小笼包. I am not a novice in this delicacy and have had the best Xiao Long Bao in Shanghai, Taipei, and Hong Kong. Theirs were authentic and quite tasty--the skin thin and the dumplings were filled with hot and juicy broth. The traditional Shanghai Xiao Long Bao / 上海小笼包 (with just pork meat) were pretty good, too.
I couldn't keep my eyes off these precious buns when I saw them on their menu. Called Pokey Mouse / 奶皇刺猥, these little porcupine buns were filled with sweet custard. I loved the "popping" texture of the bun as they were sparsely coated with poppy seeds...(check out more Shanghai Ding's specialities after the jump)
This is pan-fried Shanghainese Bun / 上海菜肉包, the buns were steamed and then pan-fried, the contrasting texture of steamed softness and pan-fried crispiness complemented the light filling of minced vegetable and meat.
I am a huge fan when it comes to red bean paste, interestingly their red bean paste bun / 南乳豆沙饼 was like nothing I have had before. With a tint of red fermented bean curb cheese (南乳), these buns were soft and aromatic.
I had two desserts: Ginger-flavored Rice Balls with Black Sesame/ 姜茶汤圆 and Durian Pancake / 榴莲煎糕. Unfortunately, my pictures didn't turn out right. Both were equally delectable especially the Durian Pancake (with real durian wrapped in a thin crepe-like pancake).
Other specialties of Shanghai Ding:
Shanghainese La Mian / 上海拉面--a simple noodle dish with spicy meat sauce topping.
Sweet Yam Bun / 香芋包--baked buns with sweet yam paste.
Deep-Fried Mango and Cheese--mango with cheese wrapped with vermicelli and then deep-fried. Yummy!
Char Siew Pastry / 叉烧酥.
Pineapple Buns / 菠蘿包--baked buns with sweet crusty toppings; good as a takeout for breakfasts or tea.
Shanghai Ding / 上海鼎 (MAIN) Blk H, 4G, Persiaran Bayan Indah, Bayan Bay, 11900 Penang Tel: 04-644-1644 (Close Wednesdays)
Shanghai Ding /上海鼎 (NEW BRANCH) 102-E-3, New World Park, Jalan Burmah, 10500 Penang Tel: 04-229-1644
Note: Below is their poetic Chinese tagline. It basically outlines the basic steps to eating Shanghai Xiao Long Bao. To learn more about the proper ways of eating Xiao Long Bao, please refer to my eating guide here.
To many people in the West, the notion of hawkers, roadside stalls, and kopi tiams (coffee shops) is as blurry as a smoked mirror; the concept is vague and hard-to-grasp (no, they are not like a food cart selling cotton candy, nor are they a McDonalds or Starbucks).
Therefore I would like to take you on a journey through the narrow streets of Georgetown, Penang and introduce you to the hawkers that have shaped the Penang culinary scene. They are essential to Penang traditions and our everyday lives; without them this island state would be a hollow shell.
With this post I give my highest tribute to these masters; whose dedications and hard work I so admire and praise, and whose creations and concoctions I so relish and savor. They are the true unsung gourmet chefs and 4-star restaurateurs of Penang. So let the homage begin.
A Hokkien Mee hawker and his customer...
Taking a break during downtime.
A Chinese Java Mee stall in a narrow alley.
Making mouthwatering Apong Manis is no easy task.
Cendol Stall in Penang Road, Georgetown.
Kacang Putih (peanuts and snacks) hawker in Little India, Georgetown.
Flipping roti canai is his passion; he does it with a smile on his face.
A hawker with his freshly roasted chestnuts.
Stalls selling refreshments and fruits.
More roadside stalls.
A Mamak (Indian Muslim) busy frying his food.
A typical Chinese kopitiam in Penang.
A not so busy kopitiam with a few patrons.
A very popular and busy kopitiam with many patrons.
After an exhausting 26-hour Penang-Singapore-Taipei-Los Angeles journey (layovers included) and then another hour to drive south from Los Angeles International Airport, I finally made it back to my place (specifically my pillow) in Irvine, California. Sleep-deprived and physically-drained, I hit the bed and passed out slept for the next 12 hours.
Waking up in my place in suburbia, I immediately felt the absence of Penang's early morning chaos, energy and, of course, noise. This is hermetically-sealed Orange County after all. Drive everywhere in your SUV Orange County. Nearest corporate supermarket 3 miles away Orange County. No way I could just walk to the local coffee shop or roadside stall to buy breakfast today. But all was not left behind. Walking out to the kitchen I could smell the tempting aroma of a Malaysian layer cake sitting on the counter top. If you have ever had Malaysian layer cake before, you know how it can fill the air with an unmistakable sweetness...
Airplanes and cars are not the only way to travel. One bite and a quick sip of MalaysianKopi-O (dark coffee) instantly transported me thousands of miles, and for a few minutes I found myself back home again.
The best layer cake and coffee powder can be found at:
Ling Home Made Cakes 11-A, Jalan Baba Ahmad, Tanjung Bungah, 11200 Penang Tel: (6)04-899-5655 Mobile Phone: (6) 016-420-9921
Ling's layer cake is made-to-order. Please call at least 24 hours in advance.
While I had planned to share every single meal of my Penang culinary adventure with you, alas, my initiative and enthusiasm has been dampened by one unsurmontible obstacle: the painfully slow dial-up connection at my parents' home.
Thus I am sharing my adventure with you in small tastes, i. e. a few pictures at a time -- sort of like stealing a bite from a friend's plate when they turn away...
This morning I woke up craving for sugar so I headed straight to the morning market at Jelutong and got myself some beautiful, colorful, and tasty Nyonya Kuih and other small treats as breakfast. Total damage was approximately US$1.00 (US$1.00 = RM3.60).
Life is just sweet!
Note: Kuih Ko Sui, Rempah Udang, Kuih Beng Kang, Pulut Tai Tai, and Pulut Inti.
Pictures of some of the scrumptious hawker foods and snacks I have been eating in Penang. Some street foods / hawker foods are inherently unphotogenic, so I will save them for future narrations and postings.
Stir-fried Balitong (Snails) with spicy peanut sauce; in order to eat the snail, you have to suck the tail and then the head to pull it out.
Otak-Otak or steamed fish mousse in a gracious banana cup.
Kuay Teow Th'ng...
Nasi Campur Melayu or Malay Food.
Hokkien Mee or Prawn Noodle Soup with generous toppings of shredded shrimps, mantis prawns, and some spicy chili paste.
Pulut Udang wrapped in banana leaves and grilled over charcoal.
Pulut Udang is my favorite Malay snack...
...they are simply delectable.
Tee Nya Kuih or rice cakes with brown sugar syrup. This Chinese delicacy is getting harder and harder to find these days. I found it at Swatow Lane. A must try. Pandan flavor is also available.
More pictures of mouthwatering Penang hawker food:
Truth be told I usually take my hometown of Penang for granted when I come back to visit, but not this time. This time it feels different. I've brought you along to share it with, and you're enabling me to view this island with new eyes.
Penang had become a precious pearl locked inside the dark shell of my mind. It needs to be broken free and re-experienced. The feelings felt again like a rekindled love affair...
And you, my new-found friend, get to share it all with me.
Fueled by my passion for Malaysian food, we will travel together on a gastronomical joyride through the streets of Penang. Once more I want to taste the excitement of this little island: be it the bustling noise of an early morning wet market, the constant chaos at the local Kopi Tiams (coffee shops), the vibrant energy in the open-air hawker centers, or the rule-less and ruthless Penang driving style (yours truly included).
The journey has barely started, but I have a feeling this ride is going to be inspiring, fulfilling, and rewarding.
Either way I am glad to be home. Let me show you around.
P.S.: Ang Lee and his production crew are currently on location in Penang shooting his new movie. The above pictures were shot in Armenian Street in Georgetown where the crew is based.
As a newbie food blogger, I am two steps behind when it comes to the hot happenings in the food blogosphere. About a week ago I requested Passionate Eater to tag me for "Five Things to Eat Before You Die" started by Traveler's Lunch Box -- not knowing exactly what it meant by "tagging" (According to the rules of the kid's game, I quickly ran away).
After finding out that I had been tagged, I started to panic not knowing exactly what to do (OMG, I'm "it"). So for the next few days, I lurked around the blogosphere and finally realized that I needed to suggest my own "Five Things to Eat Before You Die" list in return (Passionate Eater - I am sorry this has taken so long!)...
As an insatiable foodie, it's a huge challenge to limit my choices down to just 5 foods. After much considerations and serious debate with others, I finally settled with the list of top 5 foods that I would like to share with you. As Rasa Malaysia is essentially a Malaysian food blog and the word "Die" is seemingly morbid in my dictionary, I have decided to take a lighter approach and give you "Top 5 Things to Eat(While Living)in Malaysia."
And last but not least, at number 5, Grilled Stingray wrapped in banana leaves.
When live stingrays can prove to be fatal (well, you all should be aware of the sad incident by now), Malaysian Grilled Stingray is one of the best creations of Malaysian cuisine. Wrapped in banana leaves and seasoned with turmeric powder and other spices, this delicate fish is grilled to perfection and served with a condiment of Sambal Belacan with sliced shallots and lime juice.
There you have it -- the top 5 foods to eat in Malaysia -- remember, Malaysian food is not simply the five things I mentioned above. If you have the opportunity to travel through Malaysia, eat everything that looks interesting: not many places in the world have such varieties of food for your palate to experience.
If you live in KL and haven't tried out Wong Ah Wah Grilled Chicken Wings at Jalan Alor, you don't know what you have missed out.
Located in the heart of downtown KL, Jalan Alor -- once notorious as a seedy red light district - is now a food haven casually known as "Wai Sek Kai," which literally means Glutton Road in Cantonese. When night falls, Jalan Alor turns into a giant open-air hawker center with coffee shops and food stalls serving all sorts of Malaysian street food delicacies; seafood, snacks, fruits, etc. Having so many great choices, the biggest issue of conscience you face is whether your stomach is big enough to accommodate the vast array of foods available. Jalan Alor is truly a foodie mecca!
When I think of Jalan Alor, Wong Ah Wah Grilled Chicken Wings naturally comes to mind. These chicken wings are famous; indeed, this flagship delight of Jalan Alor has now crossed the ocean and landed on the menu of Fatty Crab (not that Fatty Crab in KL), one of the hottest new restaurants in New York City. Once a resident of KL, Chef Zak Pelaccio launched this Malaysian joint to pay homage to the phenomenal food culture of Malaysia (finally, someone is doing justice to Malaysian food!)...
Reminiscing on the juicy and scrumptious taste of Wong Ah Wah's chicken wings, I took a stab at making them a few days ago. The real Jalan Alor Chicken Wings are so fine that my version was poles apart in terms of taste and presentation, but I took it very much in stride because there is no way one can top Wong Ah Wah when it comes to grilled chicken wings.
Recipe: BBQ Chicken Wings
Ingredients:
10-12 chicken wings
For Marinate:
5 shallots (peeled and chopped into small pieces) 5 garlic (peeled and chopped into small pieces) 2 inches of ginger (peeled and chopped into small pieces) 1 teaspoon of dark soy sauce 5 teaspoon of soy sauce 3 dashes of white pepper powder 3 dashes of sesame oil Sugar to taste Salt to taste
Method:
Marinate the chicken wings for 12 hours. Grill over fire and constantly turning them so they are evenly grilled. Serve hot.
Note: Jalan means Road in Malay. KL refers to Kuala Lumpur, the biggest city in Malaysia.
If you cook a lot, you have to get creative with using up what's left over in your kitchen and fridge to prepare your meals. Last week I made Kerabu Bee Hoon in celebration of Hari Merdeka (Malaysia National Day). That being said, I now have a half pack of vermicelli remaining.
What to do, what to do.
It's the perfect time to try making Fried Vermicelli, Xiamen Style (厦门炒米粉. I visited Xiamen earlier this year and fell immediately in love with the island and more importantly, the food. Located in the Fujian province, Xiamen is a beautiful island with abundant fresh produce and seafood. The food in Xiamen is very similar to the Chinese food in Malaysia since many of the early Chinese settlers in Malaysia came from the Fujian region. Other than rice, noodles and vermicelli are heavily consumed as daily staples. One of their common dishes is Xiamen Fried Vermicelli, a simple meal easy to prepare...
The key to making great Xiamen Fried Vermicelli lies in Wok Hei, which translates literally to "The Breath of Wok." To get Wok Hei, your wok has to be super-hot. It's this high heat that gives your fried vermicelli that special taste and aroma. While it's not easy to have Wok Hei in an American kitchen without setting off the smoke detector, I managed to capture the essence with the generous use of cooking oil. Here is what I did:
Recipe: Xiamen-style Fried Vermicelli (厦门炒米)
Ingredients:
1/2 pack of Vermicelli/Bee Hoon Some chicken breast meat (cut into thin strips) 6 shrimps (shelled and deveined) 2 stalks of scallion (cut into 2" length) 2 cloves garlic (chopped) 2 teaspoons of light soy sauce 1 teaspoon of oyster sauce 1/2 teaspoon of dark soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon of sugar A dash of white pepper powder A dash of sesame oil Some cabbages (julienne)
Method:
Heat up the wok until it starts smoking (but before your alarm goes off!). Pour in generous doses of cooking oil and wait for the smoke again (again, before the alarm goes off!). Add in the chopped garlic and quickly stir a few times, then follow by chicken strips, shrimps, and julienne cabbages. Stir and mix the ingredients well with the garlic until you smell the sweet aroma from the ingredients. Add vermicelli, soy sauce, oyster sauce, dark soy sauce, sugar, chopped scallions and stir fry vigorously over high heat. Just when the vermicelli starts to burn, add in a dash of white pepper powder and sesame oil, stir for 1 minute. Serve hot with a spoonful of roasted chili paste.
If you do not pay attention to these cooking directions, you won't have to worry about washing the dishes; the fire sprinklers will take care of that for you!
Malay Satay -- those little skewers of meat with peanut sauce and ketupat (Malay rice cake) is a very popular dish in Malaysia. Walk down any street in the country and the mouthwatering aroma of Satay exudes from practically every corner you pass: road side Malay stalls, hawker centers, pasar malam (night markets), kopi tiam (Chinese coffee shops), and even high-end restaurants.
Of course Satay is universally loved across Southeast Asia. (It's commonly believed that Satay is the region's distant cousin to Middle-Eastern Kebabs, thanks to the spice route and the culinary influence of early Arab traders.) However each country has their own interpretation for Satay, influenced by their own unique food culture and distinct palate. For instance, Indonesian Satays tend to be sweeter because of the heavy consumption of Kecap Manis (sweet soy sauce) while the Thai Satay is slightly less sweet since coconut milk is used instead...
No surprise then that Malaysian Satay is made with ingredients and spices commonly found in Malay cooking; shallots, lemon grass, turmeric powder (kunyit), and coriander seeds. The basic recipe calls for the cook's meat of choice -- be it chicken, beef, lamb -- to marinate for many hours or even overnight so as to lock in the flavor. In addition to the peanut dipping sauce, Malay Satay is served with ketupat, onions, and cucumber. Trust me, the taste of these side dishes complement each other exquisitely.
When I make Satays at home I often save time by using off-the-shelf satay marinate powder such as Ayam Brand Satay Seasoning (aka "cheated"), but the existence of Rasa Malaysia has motivated me to cook everything from scratch nowadays. So I will admit to modifying the traditional Malay recipe with a tint of Kecap Manis and Oyster Sauce substituting for salt and sugar. But as you can infer from these pictures, the end results were delicious. You can almost smell the enticing aroma of Satay from your computer, can't you?
Recipe: Chicken Satay
Ingredients:
4 chicken legs and thighs or 4 chicken breasts (deboned)
Spice Paste:
1 teaspoon of coriander powder 2 stalks lemon grass 6 shallots (peeled) 2 cloves garlic (peeled) 4 tablespoons of cooking oil 1 teaspoon of chili powder 2 teaspoons of turmeric powder (kunyit) 4 teaspoons of Kecap Manis (ABC brand from Indonesia recommended) 1 spoon of Oyster Sauce (Lee Kam Kee brand recommended) Bamboo skewers (soaked in water for 2 hours to avoid burning) 1 cucumber (skin peeled and cut into small pieces)
Method:
Cut the chicken meat into small cubes. Grind the Spice Paste in a food processor. Add in a little water if needed. Marinate the chicken pieces with the spice paste for 10-12 hours. Thread the meat on to bamboo skewers and grill for 2-3 minutes each side. Serve hot with fresh cucumber pieces.
My favorite Malaysian snack is Roti Canai, which you already know if you have read my thoughts about this fluffy, crispy, and flaky dish here. While I love dipping my Roti Canai in curry sauce, I also like it sweet -- so sometimes I pour some sugar on my Roti Canai and eat it Indian-style (which is to say with my bare hands).
In the United States, you can find Roti Canai dough at Asian or Indian grocery stores in the frozen food section. The actual name it's sold under depends on the country of origin and the brand you choose. For instance Roti Canai is known as Roti Prata in Singapore, and since Prata is derived from a North Indian word Paratha it can also be sold as Roti Paratha. Personally I am a big supporter of "Made in Malaysia" when it comes to food so I usually buy the brands from Malaysia, although I have tried Roti Prata/Roti Paratha from Singapore and it tastes equally good. It's really a matter of personal preference...
As for preparing sweet Roti Canai at home, here are a couple of quick tips to make sure it comes out extra buttery and flaky:
Heat your work with huge amounts of butter before pan-frying Roti Canai so your Roti Canai has a nice rich flavor.
Once it's out of the wok, quickly tear the RotiCanai into small pieces. Quickly as in it will be really hot.
While still warm pour some sugar on them (Am I the only one who hears that Def Leppard song "Pour some sugar on me" in the head right now?) and serve immediately.
Roti Canai with sugar is very easy to make, convenient, and not-too-filling. It's perfect as a light snack.
Sorry for the lack of updates this week. I am still in Tokyo.
By the way, grocery shopping in Tokyo is a food blogger dream comes true--the freshest produce I have seen by far! And that explains why Japanese
cuisine is so good--it's the combination of the freshest ingredients with really simple cooking. You can't go wrong with that!
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My favorite Malaysian snack is Roti Canai, which you already know if you have read my thoughts about this fluffy, crispy, and flaky dish 
Sorry for the lack of updates this week. I am still in Tokyo.
